Nanocelluloses as skin biocompatible materials for skincare, cosmetics, and healthcare: Formulations, regulations, and emerging applications

Nowadays, skin biocompatible products are fast-growing markets for nanocelluloses with increasing number of patents published in last decade. This review highlights recent developments, market trends, safety assessments, and regulations for different nanocellulose types (i.e. nanoparticles, nanocrystals, nanofibers, nanoyarns, bacterial nanocellulose) used in skincare, cosmetics, and healthcare. The specific properties of nanocelluloses for skincare include high viscosity and shear thinning properties, surface functionality, dispersion stability, water-holding capacity, purity, and biocompatibility. Depending on their morphology (e.g. size, aspect ratio, geometry, porosity), nanocelluloses can be used as formulation modifiers, moisturizers, nanofillers, additives, membranes, and films. Nanocellulose composite particles were recently developed as carriers for bioactive compounds or UV-blockers and platforms for wound healing and skin sensors. As toxicological assessment depends on morphologies and intrinsic properties, stringent regulation is needed from the testing of efficient nanocellulose dosages. The challenges and perspectives for an industrial breakthrough are related to optimization of production and processing conditions.